Sunday, January 11, 2009

San Mateo Daily Journal

Articles from 7/14/08 to 10/13/08 can be found here at the San Mateo Daily Journal website.

New University 1/5/09, Column #1

SUBURBAN OUTFITTER
Less Trashin’, More Fashion on Social Network Chictopia.com
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 42, ISSUE 12 | JAN 05 2009
Last night, I had a nightmare about Chictopia.com. I was clicking through page after page of girls in oversized white t-shirts, black leggings and black boots. Every single ChicBlog was exactly the same. My legs began to hurt as if the sight of so many bland outfits was physically painful and I suddenly woke up in actual pain. Lying in bed, I began to wonder if I go on Chictopia too much.

Chictopia.com is a social network based in San Francisco designed for users (mostly women) to showcase their most stylish outfits. Deemed the “people’s fashion destination,” users rate and comment on each other’s outfits. Teen Vogue called Chictopia “the next big thing” and Nylon declared the site to be “totally inspiring, despite the cheesy name.”

On Chictopia, users are able to browse the pages of other users with the same age, body type and even skin tone. Members post reviews on specific items of clothing, from Hanes T-shirts to Ksubi jeans. Each month, members with the most “fans” (other users who add them as a favorite Chictopian) become style icons and receive prizes.

What’s the point of Web sites like Chictopia? Blatantly put, they are places for people to fish for compliments. You post up a picture of yourself and people comment with things like, “Your hosiery are amazing!” and “Yeah, those tights are the bee’s knees!” (Both of these are real comments, by the way. Thanks, Zahara22 and spencerjacobs!) A cynic would say that Chictopia.com is a massive cesspool of narcissists. We judge each other based solely on our outfits and make friends with the people whose outfits we like. Of course, we talk cyber-trash about people in ugly outfits, right? Wrong.

Contrary to popular belief, fashion nerds, at least the people who are truly interested in fashion rather than shopping, appreciate quirkiness. We are less interested in Louis Vuitton monogram purses than we are in clothing that is unique, eccentric and often anachronistic. Take drop-crotch pants for example. I go on Chictopia to see users proudly don pants that would look horrendous on me and have an extremely slim chance of being seen in Orange County (the land of year-round flip-flops), and I admire them for it. I crave the eccentric. Chictopia users are more encouraging and praising than someone would expect a community of the fashion-obsessed to be.

One could argue that this is shameless self-promotion, and I agree completely. In fact, that’s entirely the point of fashion. Dressing is a form of self-expression, and showing it off online is akin to an artist showing off her portfolio on deviantART. I’m not ashamed to admit that on most days, I put thought into what I put on my back and getting feedback — especially if I’m trying something new or particularly quirky — is very much appreciated.

Having a place like Chictopia, where people can ask for advice by creating polls and posting in the Chictopia forums, is also helpful for the style-challenged. I log on when I’m feeling uninspired or bored with my wardrobe. This brings me to the one qualm I have with style websites — the notion of originality.

Everyone knows the adage, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.” So what happens when people are inspired by each other’s outfits? Everyone starts to look the same. This is simply the nature of trends; they may seem obscure at first, but they gain popularity and soon you can’t escape them. Posting on Web sites like this with the expectation that people will like your “original” outfit often guarantees that people will copy elements of it, which led me to realize that people are rarely, if ever, truly original.

We take inspiration from each other, from art, from movies, from the runways. Chictopia is a place to see how this inspiration shows itself in our everyday lives.

New University 12/1/08

Nifty Gifts on a College Budget
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 42, ISSUE 11 | DEC 01 2008
This year, don’t resort to a last-minute gift card. Buy something unique while avoiding the dreaded mall crowds by shopping for presents online. These Web sites offer original and affordable gifts, from beautifully crafted baubles to downright wacky knickknacks.

Etsy.com is a treasure trove of handmade goodies. This is the perfect place to order gifts that cannot be found anywhere else. Because many items are vintage or handmade, sellers often have only one of each in stock. For example, the seller “dugshop” has pomegranate-scented soap shaped like a human heart, the perfect gift for an aspiring surgeon ($6.50). Majestyinc sells vinyl key chains shaped like mustaches for $3.00. Etsy has “Geekery,” a whole category devoted to eccentric finds like these. If you are shopping for a more traditional present, however, look no further than Etsy’s handmade jewelry and housewares.

Etsy’s Gift Guides help shoppers browse gifts by other categories like “environmentally friendly,” “steampunk,” “dark arts” and “nostalgic whimsy.” You can also narrow gifts by recipient, price range and even the location of the seller.

FredFlare.com also helps you shop by theme and price range. The site has a plethora of gift themes from Audrey Hepburn (which includes ladylike sweaters and “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” eye masks) to Star Wars (an R2-D2 backpack and astronaut ice cream). FredFlare carries something for everybody, from cute jewelry to funky flash drives and other gadgets. Presents for the home include Juno’s hamburger phone ($26), a mini fondue kit ($10) and an ice cream-shaped lamp ($48). You’ll find tons of fun and affordable presents for girly-girls and nerdy friends alike.

Speaking of geeky gifts, ThinkGeek.com is heaven for the easily amused. ThinkGeek carries what could arguably be the coolest t-shirts ever. The Electronic Drum Kit shirt has an embedded speaker that plays seven drum noises when you tap spots on the shirt’s drum graphic. The Wi-Fi Detector shirt displays the Wi-Fi signal strength in fluctuating glowing bars. Both shirts are $29.99 and will surely entertain the Rock Band lovers and computer geeks on your list.

ThinkGeek also has some obscure gifts that could entertain your zaniest friends, like the R2 Fish Training School Kit, which is exactly what it sounds like. For $39.99, you get an instructional DVD, an instruction manual and more accessories that will help the lucky recipient teach his or her goldfish “over 10 amazing tricks.” For the ultimate useless present enthusiast, order a box of LOLMagnetz to make captions for your very own “Lolcat,” cat images juxtaposed with humorous statements in broken, Internet slang ($19.99). I can has?

Even higher up on the crazy gift scale are presents from Edible.com. Edible is not for the faint of stomach. Have you ever tried oven-baked tarantula, scorpion-infused vodka, or barbeque worm crisps? What about Thai green crocodile curry? Edible carries all these things and more. The England-based Web site carries food that you would never think can be consumed, but happen to be delicacies in certain countries. Edible even explains the nutritional value of its products and describes their tastes. For example, did you know that Mopani worms, a snack enjoyed by South African natives, have a texture that’s similar to tofu, but taste like dried fish?

Those who don’t want gifts made from animals might enjoy food made with the animals’ help, like tea picked by specially trained monkeys or coffee that has been regurgitated by weasels.

In Edible’s “aphrodisiac” section, you can find “the ultimate extravagance”: a champagne-flavored lollipop that contains flakes of 24-karat gold. The Aphrodisiac Pearl Lollipop, made with real ground pearls, raw cane sugar and wild Madagascan vanilla essence, sounds genuinely yummy.

Whatever you choose to buy from these Web sites, one thing is guaranteed: a holiday shopping experience that has never been this memorable.

New University 10/13/08

Relics from the Runway
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 42, ISSUE 4 | OCT 13 2008
A new season is upon us, and as the sun goes into hiding, so does last season’s fashion. In the meantime, any girl can update her wardrobe with a few of this season’s trendy accessories on a college budget.

Heavy Metal:

This fall, it’s all about the details. Zippers, chains and studs give basic pieces an edge. Layered chain necklaces inspired by Givenchy’s plentiful piles of silver can be recreated by buying chains from a craft store. The same effect can also be accomplished by simply layering chunky necklaces of your own. Statement jewelry like this can toughen up a simple dress at night or add instant style to an everyday ensemble.

Exposed zippers seen at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang not only make form-fitting dresses and skirts more interesting, but are also ridiculously easy to make. By simply sewing a zipper onto a piece of clothing — the zipper doesn’t even have to function for this look — a plain piece can be instantly transformed into chic.

Haute Hippie:

“Luxe bohemian” may sound like an oxymoron, but Anna Sui and Gucci’s Frida Giannini proved that 1960s-inspired prints, feathers and fringe could be glamorous and modern. Elements of this trend can be worn in everyday life with hair accessories, jewelry and eclectic prints. Fringed boots, in both the short bootie and knee-high varieties, are a cold-weather must-have.

Fashion houses like Balmain, who debuted a high heel-moccasin-ankle boot hybrid, and sought-after labels like Louboutin have released their own spin-offs of the “original” (the original moccasin brand to be marketed to the masses, that is), more wearable and less pricey Minnetonka styles.

Grunge 2.0:

For those of us who were still in OshKosh overalls when grunge took over the 1990s, the fashion world is giving us another chance. Alexander Wang’s combination of masculine and feminine embodies the new grunge that’s a hit with the young and fashionable. Ripped tights, distressed denim and baggy trousers appeared on the runway along with plenty of black and neutral tones. Once known as a goth kid’s clunky combat boot, Doc Martens have been adopted by trendsetters like Daisy Lowe (who stars in the company’s advertising campaign) and Agyness Deyn.

New University 5/19/08

Fashion on a Budget
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 41, ISSUE 29 | MAY 19 2008
As college students, when we think about money, we think about how we spend ludicrous amounts on gasoline, how we wish we hadn’t made so many Starbucks runs and how buying textbooks tends to leave gaping holes in our wallets. Accumulating costs throughout the quarter leaves us more worried about being in debt than about the next It bag or pair of Nikes we’re going to buy.

Basically, fashion is not something most of us can spend too much on. Some of us are willing to sacrifice our savings for style, but for those who would rather be more frugal with fashion, here are some tips.

The first thing that one should keep in mind is what to splurge on versus what to save on. For girls, bags are splurge-worthy because they can last season after season and have the power to add polish to any outfit. Guys tend to spend their cash on multiple pairs of shoes and an array of dress shirts. Many people, guys or girls, insist that the price of designer jeans can be worth the perfect fit. But what can one do if they want to dress to impress without spending too much? Don’t get your skinny jeans in a twist: It’s very possible to save some money when shopping for the pricier items of your wardrobe.

One way to save is to subscribe to the mailing lists of your favorite stores. What you may think is spam could actually be great savings. Not only will a store e-mail about new items, but the store (which could be anything from Barneys to American Apparel) can also mail promotional codes for “private” sales, deals on shipping and even discounts just for signing up for their newsletters.

Although extra e-mails can be annoying, it’s worth it to save some cash with a few clicks. Another online shopping tip is to Google promotional codes or coupon codes for wherever you’re ordering from. Sites like Retail Me Not and Coupon Cabin offer codes for savings on tons of sites.

Now that you know how to save on regular-priced fashion, where can you find clothing that’s inexpensive to begin with? Start by looking where you would normally be hunting for DVDs and toiletries: Target. The megastore has a surprisingly good selection, including their GO International line, which carries designs by different designers that change every few months. Currently, Rogan for Target’s eco-friendly women’s wear line is in stock. Look to places like Target for affordable basics and swimwear.

Searching for another opportunity to find some inexpensive and trendy fashion that’s even closer to campus? Look no further than UC Irvine’s upcoming Sample Sale, organized by Associated Students of UCI. On Tuesday, May 20, come to the Student Center’s Emerald Bay and Doheny rooms to find tons of merchandise at factory prices. Approximate prices for some of the clothing include hats and T-shirts for $10 and shorts, backpacks and sweaters for $20 to $25. The brands include BB Dakota, Rocawear, Kallusive, The Other Duck, Stussy, Rad, Undefeated, USDA Clothing and more.

Now that you know how to fill up your closet for less, spread the knowledge and use those extra pennies to fill up your gas tank. Happy shopping!

New University 5/5/08

From the Runway to Ring Mall
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 41, ISSUE 27 | MAY 05 2008
The sun is shining and the breeze is balmy—spring has definitely arrived. Some days, the heat is sweltering enough to drive a girl into the ubiquitous shorts and flip-flops uniform. What can you do to get out of a hot-weather fashion rut, especially on a college student’s budget? Here are a few spring and summer trends to take from the runways to Ring Mall.

IN RAINBOWS

In this spring’s shows, ROY G. BIV ruled the runways. Color was bold, bright and unapologetic. Designers did not shy away from color, and neither should you. To interpret this trend in a subtle way, try taking one item of clothing and wearing it in an unexpected color. Buy jeans in a striking lemon yellow, or for those who take baby steps, a pale blue. Accenting neutrals with brights, like the chartreuse miniskirt or the lipstick red jacket paired with pale colors at 3.1 Philip Lim, is quite a brilliant move. More ways to add punch to an everyday outfit are to layer with a bright cardigan or wrap oneself in a scarf in an eye-catching color—why not both? Spring is no time to be shy. Even Ralph Lauren, which is known for its classic designs and color palette, sent models sashaying down the catwalk in vibrant, saturated hues in the label’s 40th anniversary show. From Easter-egg pastels to Day-Glo neons, fashion went full spectrum.

AROUND THE WORLD

Many designers took inspiration from global cultures in their collections, from Christian Lacroix’s outlandish feathers and prints to Proenza Schouler’s more subdued palette. African motifs and Asian ikat patterns were prevalent on this season’s runways. Fortunately, for those on a budget, this trend can easily translate into an accessory, like a scarf or piece of jewelry, to update a basic outfit.

Another global-inspired trend of the moment is the gladiator sandal. Although the shoes have appeared in past seasons, they are everywhere this spring. If you want to keep the style a bit more subdued (in other words, if you want to avoid looking like you’re about to fight Russell Crowe) try the style in black or silver with just a few straps. With these global looks, you can dress like you’ve traveled the world, even if the most exotic place you’ve been lately is Fashion Island.

ART STAR

Vivid colors, expressionistic and aggressive brushstrokes—does this sound like a critique from a studio art class? Actually, we’re talking about dresses from Chloé and Dolce & Gabbana, among others. This season, many pieces appear to be streaked with paint and covered in a myriad of intense hues. Art and fashion unite more than ever this spring. In addition to fashion inspired by the abstract expressionism movement, designers have been inspired by illustration.

A prime example lies in the fairy illustrations printed throughout Prada’s collection. Are you artistically inclined? Grab a fabric pen or even some acrylic paint (because it’s permanent, it works as fabric paint) and make some fairy figures (or anything you’d like!) of your own. If you’re more on the crafty side, a bottle of Rit dye is your friend as designers were also inspired by the look of watercolors. Dip-dyeing a shirt, skirt, scarf or even a dress will create the much-desired ombré effect. Tie-dye shirts and scarves are also fresh ways to bring the artistic trend to everyday wear.

Now that you are familiar with some of the trends of spring and summer, make them your own. Don’t fear color, pattern or personalization. As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is made to become unfashionable,” so embrace changing trends as different outlets for self-expression. Have a stylish spring!

New University 4/21/08

Latin-American Film Festival: Life, Blood For Rent
BY DAVID LUMB
VOLUME 41, ISSUE 25 | APR 21 2008
With the recent surge of interest in indie films, independent foreign films are finally starting to creep out of film festivals and into local venues. To that end, the Department of Spanish and Portuguese and Department of Latin-American Studies, in collaboration with the Film and Video Center, is presenting the 9th Annual Latin-American Film Festival from Wednesday, April 16 to Saturday, April 19 and again the following week from Wednesday, April 23 to Saturday, April 26.

Each night features a select film. In keeping with the festival’s traditions, most of the films are the directors’ premiere films. Showings begin at 7 p.m. in HIB 100, with a $2 admission fee.

The film that opened the festival, El Brindis, which means “To Life” in English, is directed by Shai Agosin. Emilia (Ana Serradilla), a professional photographer in Mexico, reluctantly travels to Chile to visit her ailing father, Isidoro (Jose Soriano) and his Jewish family, whom she hardly knows. Tension between father and daughter is alleviated by the local Rabbi David (Francisco Melo), although his interaction with Emilia may cause more problems than it solve

The film is well-written, if formulaic, but the characters are honestly portrayed with fresh dialogue. Serradilla plays her awkward family interactions well, although this translates to some exceedingly stiff scenes with Soriano, but the chemistry is apparent in her scenes with Melo, which turns into a believable romance.

Soriano is the feature of the film, and takes every scene he’s in, delivering strength, pain and guilt, but intentionally without tact. Overall, the film succeeds where bigger budgets fail: honesty in relationships strained with conditions and past problems. It isn’t great, but it’s cute, an enjoyable film to experience and a promising start for Agosin. As an added plus, the shots of Chile and Mexico are beautiful, and Agosin deserves extra credit for shooting on such a gorgeous location.

Jacobo Sefami, a professor in the department of Spanish, strongly desired to bring Latin-American cinema to the UC Irvine community and started the Latin-American Film Festival in 1998. Sefami partnered with the Mexican Consulate in Los Angeles to advertise for the festival, which featured exclusively Mexican films from the 1990s.

The festival has grown to include all Latin-American countries: some of this year’s entries include collaboration between Mexico and Canada, Germany and Cuba and Argentina, France and Spain.

“Our main goal is to bring films that are not available in theaters, films that are very well-done but, unfortunately, don’t make it,” Sefami said. “Foreign films are scarce, because of Hollywood’s influence and because people don’t like to read subtitles.”

This year, Sefami has passed the reins of running the festival to Michael Harrison, a graduate student in the department of Spanish. “[The Festival]’s purpose is to expose the university community and local community to experiences from different places they don’t have access to.”

“Pura Sangre”

By Anabela Kim

Though the title may bring to mind gruesome revenge flicks or noir-like fantasies, instead, Leo Ricciardi’s “Pura Sangre” is the story of a love affair with the mundane beauty of the rural landscapes of Argentina. Captured through soothing hues of blues and greens, the film paces itself as patiently as the soft breezes coaxing the country fields. As the second installment of this year’s Latin-American Film Festival at UC Irvine, the film, within its quiet beauty, explores the tension of an estranged family its chasms deepened by obstinacy and misunderstanding.

As nine-year-old Santiago (Yaco Levy) takes a ride with his parents to reunite with his grandfather and settle a decade-long rift with his family, the ride is abruptly cut short after a disastrous car accident leaves him orphaned. His grandfather (Oscar Alegre) makes the decision of his life to look after him, panged at having to face the offspring of his daughter, and the man she ran away with. This prepares the film for the journey the family goes through to possibly heal the deeply engraved chasm. And “pura sangre,” which means pure blood in English, rings deep in the film, where the familial bond is eternal.

The film revels in its unorthodox portrayal of the ordinary. Dialogue is minimal and colloquial, while actors, although they carry emotional weight, don’t seem to be acting at all. The film achieves most of its momentum from its strong visual storytelling, inventive cinematography and editing. This subdued atmosphere reflects the emotional intensity of the grandfather, as he mourns over his dead daughter and struggles to accept her son.

Typically, a film with this much burrowed tension would expectedly climax to a satisfying revelation. However, the grandfather remains stoic in his “climactic” scene in the church. It is a powerful cliffhanger that cuts abruptly. The words, which don’t seem to say much at all, hit like darts. The director’s sincerity to this form is admirable, but one has to wonder if the revelation would have had more impact if it had more screen time.

Despite its fearless appeal to subtlety, the film isn’t entirely unforgettable. Hopefully, a more tightly constructed film may come out of this same director in the future but, so far, the emotional impact is just not there.

“Se Arrienda”

By Louise Lao

When the average college student imagines his or her life in 15 years, he or she most likely envisions themselves with a house, a successful career and a happy relationship or marriage.

At age 34, Gastón Fernández, played by Luciano Cruz-Coke, has none of the above. “Se Arrienda” or “For Rent” is directed by Alberto Fuguet and was released in 2005. The film, which is in Spanish with English subtitles, tells the story of Fernández, a man struggling to live with the truth that his life did not turn out as planned. In college, he dreamed of becoming the next Danny Elfman and composing music for films. The idealistic protagonist makes a vow among his friends, who share the same naïveté at the time, never to sell out for financial gain.

Fifteen years later, while spending six of those 15 years in New York City, Fernández returns home to Santiago, Chile, where everyone has changed but him. From one friend who became a Grammy-winning pop singer to his ex-girlfriend who designs shopping malls, Fernández finds that those who became successful did so by conforming to modern Chilean society. Broke, with no life or health insurance, Fernández reluctantly takes a job at his father’s real-estate company. He sells apartments to various characters, including Elisa, a college student who is fascinated by Fernández’s older work. By learning about the lives of his customers, he develops a new insight on life itself.

Fuguet intertwines scenes from the film’s main narrative with scenes from a film that Fernández made in his student days at Santiago’s Musical Conservatory (where, ironically, he was voted “most likely to succeed”), called “The Killer Ants.” In a city where killer ants devour anyone who is unable to love, the camera depicts several survivors (and unfortunately, none of the actual ants) in the eerily beautiful, practically deserted streets of Santiago. The scenes from this black-and-white student film correspond to moments of Fernández’s current life and provide a structural model that is uncommon in today’s mainstream American movies.

While the film drew criticism for touching upon various trite cinematic themes �' think of the “coming home from a long absence” and “awkward guy meets quirky girl” elements reminiscent of “Garden State” �' this movie is well-acted and visually engaging. The soundtrack and exchange between scenes of the modern day and the grainy, empty world of “The Killer Ants” are two aspects of the film that make it original and worth a watch.

“Se Arrienda” is quite relatable to a college audience. Students can easily see themselves as Fernández’s character, whether they share the same refusal to stray from their dreams or simply want to find their place in the world.

New University 2/18/08

Master Cleanse: Diet Fad or Diet Fab?
BY LOUISE LAO
VOLUME 41, ISSUE 18 | FEB 18 2008
Beyonc� did it for a movie role, celebrities do it in order to slim down for an event and people must do it all the time when they have their jaw wired shut: They go on a liquid diet. Drinking nothing but protein shakes and smoothies for days or even weeks doesn't sound very appetizing, but what about a mixture of cayenne peppers, lemon juice and maple syrup? This particular diet, the Master Cleanse, is infamous for helping Beyonc� lose 20 pounds for the movie 'Dreamgirls.' However, others use it to simply cleanse their bodies, not just to lose weight.

Third-year civil engineering major Alex Welsh represents the latter reason. Instead of using the Cleanse as a weight-loss method, Welsh intended to detoxify his body by drinking nothing but the Master Cleanse cocktail consecutively, for 10 days. Welsh claims it was 'The longest 10 days of my life.' Weight loss, he adds, was 'an unintended result � probably the only thing you really realize right away.'

Welsh lost about 10 pounds doing the Cleanse, which sounds impressive, but many experts say that people who use this diet gain the weight back within a few weeks. Welsh states, 'If you want to lose weight really fast you could do it. ... Supposedly, the only kind of weight you lose is what your body doesn't need, like fat or toxic material,' he added. In other words, you should not expect any dramatic changes and, if you do, there's a good chance that the weight will inch its way back on you.

So what are the pros and cons of the Master Cleanse diet? Welsh likes the fact that 'you only have to worry about fixing your food one time,' because he would mix six to 10 glasses a night for the following day. On the other hand, times without the drink were tough. 'You have no energy unless you drink the drink. � Once you drink [it], that's how much power you're going to have. If you don't drink the drink, then you're really tired.'

When asked about doing the Cleanse again, Welsh states he would only do it once a year, instead of the recommended three to four times per year. On the contrary, Heidi Rom, a second-year humanities undecided major, said her friend often repeats the Cleanse, which had an unfortunate effect: 'She lost 10 pounds in two weeks, but the weight didn't stay off. � It's like a yo-yo.'

When asked about the Master Cleanse, most students were divided about its effectiveness as a diet. Diana Kang, a second-year international studies major, said she would try the Cleanse for weight loss. 'I would only do the detox diet if I wanted to get skinny for an event.' Heather Harden, a second-year biological sciences major, would not do the Cleanse at all, because 'basically you would just be losing water weight and you wouldn't be taking the weight off in a natural way, so it would not be beneficial to your health.' As for its detoxifying abilities, Harden said, 'I think there's other beneficial ways to detox, like taking antioxidants.'

Like many experts, Harden agreed that antioxidants play a key role in a healthy diet. In 'Harper's Bazaar,' Naturopathic doctor Roni DeLuz recommended drinking 'two berry juices (try blueberries, pomegranates and a�ai berries), two vegetable juices (try broccoli, spinach and carrots) and a pureed-veggie soup each day.' If a liquid diet isn't for you, no one can ever go wrong with a healthy diet of 'fruits, veggies, nuts, whole grains and fish,' according to New York nutritionist Lauren Slayton.

In essence, the Master Cleanse diet can be an interesting and effective experience to detoxify one's body, but weight loss is a long-term process. If you're considering the Master Cleanse for weight loss purposes, try good old-fashioned healthy eating and exercise.